A Week in Sicily

by Fabrizia Lanza In the area of the Norman palace, near the market, there are still some little medieval botteghe (shops) below the level of the palace. Via dei Biscottari is where they used to make the pastries and cookies for the king. There is one shop I love to visit where they still make the shells for cannoli by hand. Sicilians love cannoli, of course, filled with fresh ricotta. We have an intense sweet tooth. Via dei Biscottari near Via Saladino

by Fabrizia Lanza Within the Palace of the Normans, there’s a chapel of the kings. “It’s sumptuous,” Fabrizia says, “all covered with mosaics. It’s like getting inside a golden box of jewelry.” Piazza del Parlamento 1 This story appeared in the January/February 2011 issue.

You might recognize Palermo’s opera house, the Massimo Theater, from its role in The Godfather: Part III—the movie’s final scenes were filmed here. Though it echoes classical style, the building is young compared to Palermo’s other architectural attractions, built just over a century ago, in the late 1800s. It’s the largest opera house in Italy and the third largest in all of Europe. During the day, visitors can take guided tours (which are offered in English).

With its small shops and outdoor restaurants, the long Corso Vittorio Emanuele in Lipari Town was made for strolling. The Ottoman admiral Barbarossa wreaked havoc here in 1544; following that, Spanish rulers built the imposing citadel over a Greek acropolis. Inside its walls, the Archaeological Museum, located in an old bishop’s palace, displays Neolithic objects alongside fine amphorae and other Greek artifacts. Next door, a gorgeous Baroque facade draws you into the cathedral with its detailed and colorful vault.

Make a meal of fresh sea urchin at Osteria Antica Marina among the bustle of the fishmongers in Catania. This appeared in the August/September 2013 issue. Image courtesy of Osteria Antica Marina

With the abundance of Sicilian produce (think lemons, oranges, eggplant, tomatoes from Mt Etna) - it is no wonder that the early morning markets are overwhelmed with options. Grab your bags and head out early to get the best variety --- and make sure you ask to taste before you buy, as vendors are more than happy to share their hard work with you!