Eating and Drinking in Chamonix

A quintessential Alpine winter break wouldn’t be complete without scooping dripping molten cheese from a fondue pot after a day on the slopes. Few places offer this traditionally Savoyard experience quite like the warmly elegant La Calèche Restaurant. It’s not just the variety of fondues, raclettes, and tartiflettes which sets this place apart: The Savoyard dishes merge perfectly with the array of black-and-white photos of Mont Blanc hanging on the walls and the wooden sledges and skis hanging from the ceiling. The cozy terrace is ideal for watching skiers heading back home, while on a Tuesday evening a lively costumed folklore group induces singing, dancing, and mountain merriment.

Located next to Les Praz’s par 72 golf course, La Cabane des Praz offers a charming, out-of-town dining experience, along with views of Mont Blanc and other majestic peaks. Golfers and couples alike come here to enjoy modern French cuisine by the crackling fire, or afternoon tea on the sunbaked terrace. The menu ranges from fillet of beef in Béarnaise sauce to arctic char with parsnips and mushrooms. During the week, diners can also opt for a $36 three-course lunch menu.

La Crèmerie du Glacier is quite rightly renowned for its hearty Savoyard cuisine and huge selection of cheese dishes. Couple that with the Alpine forest surroundings, a nearby glacier, and a warm wooden chalet interior, and the emblematic Chamonix experience is complete. Indeed, it seems little has changed at La Crèmerie du Glacier since it was first opened in 1926. Go with a large appetite, as the traditional dishes—raclette, fondue—arrive in alarmingly substantial quantity. No surprise then that locals descend upon this cream-colored restaurant in the evening, turning the dining room into a lively, raucous spot.

It’s not just Restaurant le 3842’s elevation that will make you lose your breath. Known as one of Europe’s highest restaurants (3,842 meters above sea level), this remarkable spot provides panoramic views of snow-dipped Alpine peaks that you can almost reach out and touch. Somehow built onto the side of Aiguille du Midi and only accessible via the cable car, this remarkable feat of engineering seems more like the dining place of Gandalf the Grey than a quality French restaurant. Once you’ve dragged yourself from the viewing platform, head inside to dine on locally sourced fare including cured meats, cheese, and Savoie rump steak.

While Chamonix boasts a plethora of exquisite fine-dining restaurants, the area has a rugged, often wild side too. Step forward, Micro Brasserie de Chamonix or MBC as it’s known: Towers of nachos covered in glowing cheese, jugs of beer dripping with froth, and a clientele more chug than chic make this fun spot ideal for après-ski. Run by Canadians, this microbrewery offers a wide selection of real ales and lagers brewed in the onsite fermenting tanks and vessels. Classic Canadian poutine, slow-cooked ribs, and a wide selection of burgers satisfy the appetite after a long day on the slopes.

Do it simple; do it well. For 18 years Poco Loco has specialized in one thing: scrumptious hamburgers. From chicken to veal and from veggie to traditional, this small restaurant’s burgers lure locals and tourists alike looking for a hearty, but economical meal. The fries-stuffed sandwiches and burgers will refuel any weary limbs after a day on the slopes. All burgers are rich in flavor, and some, like the spicy option, pack quite a punch. A good strategy here is to grab one to go and then devour it in the midst of magical Alpine surroundings.

Le Sérac demonstrates that not all fabulous fondue spots must be tucked away inside a mountainous Alpine chalet. This restaurant, located on Chamonix‘s main street, serves a host of Savoyard classics—including the iconic bubbly-cheese delight—as well as exquisite modern French fare, plus a kid’s menu. While there are elements of traditional Haute Savoie ambience, such as the wood-planked walls, the restaurant’s decor holds a touch of contemporary sheen with a glass fireplace and modern furniture. During the warmer months, choose a table on the outside terrace, a great spot for people watching.