Look up! Genoa’s Best Church Ceilings

One of the most highly decorated churches in Genoa, Santa Maria della Vigne is hauntingly beautiful. Originating in the 10th century (when monks tended wine-producing grapevines in the courtyard, hence the name), the Basilica was not completed until the mid 1700s. But tucked into the far corner is an original Madonna and the Angels by Giovanni Mazone, circa 1465.

Located just steps from the ancient harbor, and perched above a small series of shops (that have been used for centuries as ‘rental income’ for the church itself), San Pietro in Banchi has an air of ‘incompletion’ - especially the exterior. But finished for the last time in 1585 (while built on ruins from the 9th century), the beautiful interior ceiling, flooded with natural sunlight from the octagonal glass dome, showcases some of the loveliest art of that period.

Built in the early 12th century as the private chapel of the powerful Doria family, the Church of San Matteo is adorned with a stunning Venetian glass mosaic over the entrance flanking the small piazza (not an everyday experience in 10th century Genoa). While the Republic of Genoa and the Republic of Venice were deep enemies at this time, the mosaic was fashioned by imprisoned Venetians from the near-by Genovese jail. While not open very often, peek inside if you can for a glimpse of the gorgeous frescoed ceilings, and the ‘original’ sword of Andrea Doria himself.

Just a few meters from the massive cathedral of San Lorenzo, Chiesa del Gesu is one of the oldest churches is Genoa, originally dating back to the 6th century. While the outside of the church was completely rebuilt in 1894 when the Doge’s Palace was strongly renovated, it still houses one of the most gorgeous ceilings in the city. Gilded in gold, and covered in richly-colored paintings, visit the Chiesa at sunset to see everything beautifully illuminated by a natural, ethereal glow.

If you visit the National Gallery in Palazzo Spinola (the home of Ansaldo Pallavicino), you can see three small sketches that were given as ‘mock-ups’ to Sr Pallavicino by the artist who would eventually go on to paint these frescoes in this beautiful church, La Chiesa di San Siro. One of the wealthiest aristocratic families of the time, Sr Pallavicino pulled many strings in this stunning space, including choosing the artistic embellishments. Originally dating back to the Benedictines of the 6th century, this is one of the largest churches today in Genoa, and certainly one of the most ornate (being rebuilt and redecorated in the Baroque style of the 16th and 17th centuries).

The organ music in the 12th century Chiesa di San Luca is absolutely breathtaking - come on a Sunday morning for a seat at Mass, or hope to stumble upon a late-afternoon impromptu concert -- either way, the notes echoing off the highly frescoed walls of this church is mesmerizing.

Chiesa di Maddalena sits in the piazza that bears her name, and directly off the Via Maddalena - a beautiful street that is filled with small shops and art galleries and specialty food stores. But the Via Maddalena also is home now, and historically always has been, to many women who still practice the ‘world’s oldest profession’ (which is legal here in Genoa) - so do not be surprised by what you may see as you make your way to this gorgeous small chapel. (The street is lovely during the day, but I probably would not frequent it after dark.) This church is worth a special stop for its absolutely massive frescoes - and a gorgeous 15th century carving of the crucifixion.