The Best of Winter In San Sebastián

Victoria Eugenia is a double-edged sword. A beautiful, red-velvet-swathed theater occupies the aboveground section of this building. Offerings feature biggish names in music, Broadway adaptations, and classical performances. Meanwhile, after midnight, it’s the basement that houses the action. The underground level is a dance club that’s at its peak from 2am on. Expect house music and house remixes of Top 40, as well as a lively, twenty- and thirty-something crowd.

San Sebastián, or Donostia in the Basque language, is a Belle Époque resort town built around the Bay of La Concha. Stroll the cobblestone Old Town streets in search of cozy shops, the city’s oldest church (San Vicente) and celebrated restaurants like Arzak and Akelarre. In the newer part of town, visit the Buen Pastor Cathedral and Spanish Queen Maria Cristina’s country home at Miramar Palace and Gardens, as well as a theater and luxury hotel named after her.

What could make a spa with all the typical trappings of luxury even better? Wall-to-wall windows overlooking La Concha bay, that’s what. La Perla does not disappoint, and it’s a great way to spend those finicky winter days when visiting San Sebastián. They also offer massages, which I highly recommend.

Pokhara, located in the center of the city, has one of the best ambiences around. The quintessential European café, with a touch of Paris and a touch of Spain, it attracts a younger, hip crowd. Don’t expect food beyond the obligatory croissants and tortilla española, but do try their carajillo. They put special care into this boozy alchoholic drink. First vodka or whisky (your choice—but choose whisky) is set aflame. Then a shot of espresso is pulled while the bartender whips body into cool, fresh cream. All of this goes into a glass to form the carajillo, one of the most delicious drinks known to man.